Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Review (SRPK87) - I Wanted To Like This New Seiko, But...
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I’m about to reveal Seiko’s secret formula. The obscure, genius, groundbreaking strategy that keeps this watchmaking juggernaut at the very top of the pecking order. Are you ready? Are you sure? Ok, here we go.
Secret Strategy X
Step 1: Identify your most popular watch.
Step 2: Discontinue said watch.
Step 3: Re-release that watch at triple the retail price.
Step 4: Buy that fifth holiday home in the Alps.
Ok, ok, so that may be taking it a little far, but the pattern is clear to see. They did it with the SKX series, then with the SNK800 series, and now they’ve gone and done it to the trusty SNXS series...only this time, they’re not even trying to hide it.
You’ve probably seen the original version of this watch before. It’s extremely popular online and always features in the top-sellers list at retailers for one key reason: It looks like a Rolex...but it’s cheap.
Yeah, the visual similarities to the Oyster Perpetual line are hard to overlook, with virtually every aspect of the dial feeling like a kid’s copied homework, and that kid did a commendable job, with a punchy dial that’s fairly well put together, considering the low retail price. It’s not an exact one-for-one clone, but it would be a stretch to say this was anything other than an intentional budget Datejust stand-in. A stand-in that worked.
That’s not to say the SNXS didn’t have its fair share of problems...
The case, for example, was the number one shortcoming. It was trash. It was polished all over, meaning it clashed with the brushed bracelet, and its sides were shaped in a fashion that left the rear protruding like an Oompa Loompa’s Buddha belly. It also featured an aging movement and a strap so poor even thieves in London know it’s not worth touching. Believe me, that takes a lot these days.
So, unlike some of the other Seikos, whose original variants weren’t really asking to be replaced, the SNXS had some pretty obvious flaws that a sequel could have fixed rather easily.
Seiko SRPK87K1 Review
And now we have that sequel, the SRPK...wait?. I thought this was the new SNXS? Aah yes, that was it, so these new models are listed as being the ‘SNXS’ series, despite their codenames actually being SRPK. This results in a final product name of SRPK87K1 Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Rinse Blue Classic Sports, for example. I tell you, whoever comes up with this stuff, they need a raise! I mean, their poor staff clearly have no clue how to designate or organize this one, which is called three different things at the top of the page. I thought Orient was bad with names, but you’d need to be working at Bletchley Park to figure this one out.
Price
Despite the hilariously convoluted name, which can be forgiven, I was still very excited to look at this one, to see if Seiko had fixed the aforementioned issues, as well as to see if it could justify the substantially higher price point. These watches are selling for over £300, almost $400 USD!
Even with inflation, this is way higher than the previous SNXS launched at and is doubly noteworthy considering that the last-gen models are still available for almost a third of the cost.
Every time I bring up Seiko pricing, I inevitably get a wave of people repeating the mantra “you never pay retail for a Seiko,” inferring that in no time, these watches will be available at a heavy discount or that you can negotiate a lower price with watch dealers. I hear that it’s unfair for me to judge the watch based on current pricing. Sadly, I think this adage is becoming more outdated every year.
Nowadays, apart from the occasional newsletter signup discount, you’ll struggle to find authorized dealers with significant wiggle room as big brands clamp down on promotional pricing and focus more on their own direct-to-consumer sales channels. This is doubly so when factoring in the transition to online shopping, where you can’t exactly become pals with the store owner.
The SRPD series was released almost five years ago, and in the UK, most authorized dealers are still charging the same for those models as they did on launch day. I live in the UK, so perhaps it varies overseas; the only way to consistently get Seikos cheaper here is either to go used or to shop at grey market sites, where you get a non-manufacturer warranty, at which point, I may as well give most watches that same leniency.
Hypothetically, even with a meaty discount, the new SNXS will still be way pricier than the last gen one. So, what has changed, and is it worth it?
Surprisingly, the SRPK ships in a less impressive box, but you know what they say: a “grower” beats a “shower” any day.
Watch Design
Within is SRPK87, the ‘Rinse Blue’ variant, which I purchased with my own money. For once, my wife and I had different first impressions of this one. To me, the SRPK just looked a bit flat. A bit dull. In preparation for this post, I’d reacquired an original SNXS, and compared to that, the SRPK gave off a much more restrained, mattified vibe.
My wife, meanwhile...she thought it looked great, commenting how it looked retro but in a stylish, sporty way.
Case
Something I was pleased about was the case. Despite the attractive price point, it was the ugly stain that marred the original watch. Here, the shape is much more well-tailored, with taller sides and curved lugs that sidestep the ‘floaty’ look of the previous version.
In this respect, the watch wears much better on the wrist, and I’m pleased to report that unlike some of the other Seiko refreshes, it’s also remained virtually unchanged in terms of size. Ok, it’s marginally bigger, with a 37.3mm diameter, 44.6mm lug-to-lug, and 11mm case thickness, but as you can tell, it’s still pretty compact overall, a trait that boosted the versatility of the original.
While it does fit my small 6 ¼ inch wrist relatively well, I wouldn’t be put off if you have a larger arm. Due to the way the case smoothly transitions into the lugs, the watch maintains quite a wide stance from top to bottom, making the watch appear somewhat larger.
On the topic of appearance, there are some more obvious changes here, too. Thankfully, the poorly executed polishing is out, replaced by a mostly brushed surface, interluded by some high-polish lips that sandwich the flanks of the watch. Admittedly, the final result, together with the polished bezel, is a little predictable and very similar to several watches I’ve covered previously, but it’s nonetheless a major step up, with drilled lugs for quicker strap changes. The case also has a substantial cut-out behind the crown, allowing for simple operation, unlike with some other recessed-crown models.
Bracelet
My only gripe with it is the space it leaves for the bracelet...or lack of it. The more I stare at it, the more I think a 20mm lug width would have been a better fit, as the existing 18mm band looks a little swallowed up, but it’s not a major concern. At least the finishing matches up this time!
Yeah, the brushed bracelet no longer looks like it’s been pulled from a separate watch...a watch found in a dumpster, no less. It’s not particularly flush with its cut-out, but it is serviceable and at least has solid links this time...is what I would be saying if Seiko weren’t being naughty.
Indeed, at a glance these look like solid steel links, which would be a major improvement over the hair-nipping folded links used in the old watch. However, upon closer inspection, you’ll see that these links are partially conjoined, with half of each still made in a similar folded fashion; the seam is just better concealed these days. Functionally, it won’t be a whole lot different from solid links, but at the price I paid, it’s disappointing that a brand with such resources can’t match most microbrands in this area.
The same can be said about the clasp. It has a mere two micro-adjustment holes, which only gives you roughly a half-link range of adjustment. You’ll likely just about get a reasonable fit, but the phrase ‘bare minimum’ again comes to mind.
Watch Crystal
Unfortunately, the trend half-continues when it comes to the final material of note, the crystal. You see, despite the price bump, Seiko has persisted in its use of Hardlex, their hardened mineral glass, which, as I found out in my scratch test, does perform slightly better than the standard stuff, albeit nowhere near as good as the upper tier sapphire used by almost all brands in this price bracket.
The only difference here, from last time, is that this crystal is domed, primarily an aesthetic choice. I’m often a proponent of this stylization, however, I can’t help but feel like the SRPK87 doesn’t quite suit the resultant bulbous, almost inflated look that comes with it. I remember I felt exactly the same about the SRPG field watch I reviewed a couple of years back. It reduces legibility too, as these crystals have either poor or no anti-reflective coating, and also boosts the thickness to 12.6mm, making it feel stubbier and chunkier than it probably could; other watches definitely have a slicker profile, which I tend to prefer.
Credit: seikowatches.com
It’s worth noting that the level of clarity is nowhere near that of the stock images. Most of the pictures or renderings look like the crystal has straight-up disappeared, an effect I simply couldn’t recreate in real life, even with a polarising lens filter. To be honest, the dome feels a little like a cost-effective token inclusion to try and justify a higher price tag.
Watch Movement
The SRPK does have a meaningful improvement around the back. The automatic 4R36, Seiko’s in-house version of the NH36, is a reliable movement that not only looks nicer than the movement in the older watch, but it does have some useful features, such as hacking, where you can stop the second hand and hand-winding, so you can quickly power up the watch if you haven’t worn it for a while.
Perhaps more usefully, the new case design also brings improved water resistance to the table. Unlike many of the older Seiko 5 models, whose poor aquatic performance forced you to remain cautious, this newer iteration boasts a much stronger 10bar rating, giving this sporty watch a level of performance that better matches its aesthetics. The dishes will no longer seem like a formidable opponent.
Dial Design
Of course, you won’t wear a watch if it’s an eyesore, and here’s where I’m pretty split on the SRPK. I don’t think it’s an ugly watch. There aren’t any elements that I can point to and say “yeah, this bit sucks,” yet at the same time, I’m struggling to pick out any parts that particularly stand out or give the dial a meaningful edge over its predecessor. I guess it does feel a touch more ethical, given that, unlike the last one, it’s not a blatant Rolex clone. The updated design has slightly different hands and a more distinct color scheme, incorporating a number of cream accents instead of white. It’s clearly still Oyster-inspired, but certain features, such as the raised chapter ring and orange seconds hand, do provide some individualism.
I had a conversation with my wife, to try and work out why she liked it so much. She told me she enjoyed how it was somewhat of a hybrid between a vintage-inspired dress watch and a more contemporary sports watch without looking too pretentious or extreme. I can definitely see it from that perspective; the design here is clutter-free with a very subdued overall appearance and a matte finish that invites everyday, multipurpose usage.
Nevertheless, I lean more towards the opinion that the final result is a little dull and boring. On the Seiko website, they state that this watch is ‘inspired by the classic 70s design’, so perhaps this is an accurate recreation of a piece from their back catalog. Still, I can’t help but feel like this isn’t significantly more attractive than the piece it was designed to replace.
I only went with blue because it was easier for me to source a blue version of the last-gen model, to give a like-for-like comparison. From the footage I’ve seen, the other two colors (beige and black) look marginally better than this one, so they could be worth considering instead.
Final Thoughts
If you’re specifically after a low-key, very safe design, I think this could work for you. However, at this price, I just feel there are many more exciting and impressive dials that I’d opt for instead.
While its value is underwhelming from a spec perspective, it’s worth remembering that big brands like Seiko do tend to bring far greater resale value than most smaller brands, so if you ever change your mind, you will be able to recoup a substantial amount of money, provided you haven’t thrown it into a blender.
The new SNXS is not a bad watch, or a badly made one, for that matter. They addressed and fixed several of the most obvious pain points. If you can get this for around, or ideally under £200, it’s a no-brainer choice over the original. At its current price, though, I feel far too much apathy to justify hanging onto it.