San Martin Original Design Watch Review - Are They Worth It?
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Ludicrous build quality, exemplary case finishing, consistent quality control, and outrageously low price tags. All were present in the trio of San Martin watches I reviewed back in February. In many ways, they outdid competitors at triple the cost, making them the obvious go-to choice for budget buyers…right?
Well, it wasn't quite that simple. You see, while excellent value, those three had some shortcomings. The branding, for starters, was a mess. The lack of clear design direction didn't help the case for this little-known watchmaker among big-hitters like Seiko, Citizen, and Orient at the same price point. Various logo styles were in play (4 in total, including the packaging), the dials were quite dull with limited personality, and they all had a generic font selection. They weren't ugly by any means; they just lacked panache and uniqueness.
In fact, that brings me to the second drawback. San Martin told me that two of those were original designs. Unfortunately, neither lived up to that promise, as I quickly found they were pretty much copies of two watches that already existed. If you're an homage watch fan, that may not have bothered you, but it was somewhat disappointing to me.
Now they're back at it, imploring originality with another pair of watches that they hope tell a different story. The San Martin Official Store on AliExpress sent these watches across for review, so thanks to them. These new watches are certainly different, but do they pack that missing punch? Stick with me and let's find out.
Watch Packaging
Upon receiving these watches, I was met with an unexpected change. Gone were the clamped boxes, replaced by what looked like two anti-personnel landmines. Indeed, these screwed containers look explosive but, luckily, don't pack any nasty surprises. Unfortunately, there aren't any pleasant surprises either. The additional bands and spring bar tools provided with the previous San Martin watches are disappointingly absent this time.
The custom shape is undoubtedly impressive, but I can't help but think it's a waste of plastic, as these are too large to be used as storage or travel pouches and will almost certainly end up in a landfill at some point. I'd have 100% taken the older packaging over these, especially considering the handy extras.
Nevertheless, thanks to the increased rigidity, your watch will almost certainly survive shipping intact.
Price
Ok, here are the two they sent over - the SN044-G and SN026-G. The former sells for just over $200 when you use the ever-present vouchers on AliExpress, while the latter can be had for just over $300 or $400, depending on the movement you choose. Please note, depending on where you live, there may be additional import charges at checkout.
Design & Construction
You'll notice immediately that these sporty models have far more punch than the older ones, with bright, flashy colors and designs that, on the surface, appear more experimental.
The level of construction thankfully hasn't receded, with each boasting class-leading cases and bracelets. While both are very nicely executed, I'd say the more expensive of the two has marginally better finishing, as you might expect, primarily due to the extra high-polish chamfers and a more complex overall configuration.
The lower-cost SN044-G might have a more simplistic shape, but the level of brushing is still better than most similarly priced offerings from Orient or Seiko. It comes in with a 38.5mm diameter, a 12.1mm thickness, and a 46.2mm lug to lug, with a very flat lug profile that results in visible gaps if you have a slim wrist like me. This 'hovering' effect isn't as jarring as on the Seiko SNXS line, but it's worth keeping in mind.
More tailored to slightly larger wrists, the SN026-G has a 40mm diameter, a 12.2mm thickness, and a 47mm lug to lug. The steeply curving lugs make this tonneau watch more palatable than you might expect, as it's well-contoured to the wrist, with little excess space.
Water Resistance
Surprisingly, the cheaper of the pair houses the more elaborate case rear, with the sporadically used Shark icon finding home within a mattified circular surround. The SN026, meanwhile, makes do with an unusually plain vertically-brushed surface, held in place with just four small corner screws. Despite the unconvincing appearance, they're good for 100m of water resistance, but the traditional screwed rear on the SN044 permits a superior 200m rating for proper scuba diving.
Watch Bracelet
San Martin is quite experimental when it comes to bracelets and straps. The previous three pieces I reviewed all had different band styles. To an extent, that rings true again here. This duo came kitted with bracelets that most closely resemble the beads of rice design, with numerous narrow central links flanked by larger outer ones. Those on the SN026 have alternating brushed and polished inner portions, with a high-polish chamfer traveling down each edge, while the SN044 has a more straightforward take, with fewer links presented in a matte texture throughout.
San Martin SN044
San Martin SN026 (Square)
In terms of quality and usability, it's swings and roundabouts. I like the look of these versus those I tried previously from San Martin, and theoretically, they should both be friendly to smaller wrists thanks to the fully flexible end links. Additionally, these all use the convenient screw-link system, which is far more user-friendly than the fiddly pin and collar method. However, there are a couple of hitches on the SN026 bracelet. Firstly, while both have nicely milled clasps and smoothly operating release mechanisms, the more expensive watch only features half the number of micro-adjustment holes, meaning it could be challenging to find a comfortable fit. Also, the latter has end links that are prone to locking at the wrong angle, wedging themselves under the watch. Some of this could be down to the slimness of my wrist, but this issue occurred on both sides and was repeatable, so I thought it needed mentioning. I didn't experience such a problem with the SN044 bracelet, which also integrates slightly better with the case.
Both crowns are generally grippy enough to use, although you'll notice the atypical octagonal crown on the larger watch isn't as forgiving to use. It also has more grittiness during winding, likely due to the movement selection.
Movement
You see, the dive watch comes with a run-of-the-mill Japanese Miyota 8215 as standard, which is a well-known and usually decent (albeit noisy) movement that offers reasonable accuracy at a moderate beat-rate; more on that in a moment. The SN026, on the other hand, comes with either a Swiss Sellita SW200 or a Chinese H.K. Precision PT5000; which you can choose between on the AliExpress listing. The former is currently available for a premium of over $100 at the time of publishing, so what's the difference, and which should you opt for?
Well, both are fundamentally ETA-2824 clones, boasting equal hi-beat performance of 28,800bph. I'm not sure which grade of SW200 San Martin puts in their watches, but either choice should still provide better accuracy than the Miyota used in the cheaper watch.
I opted for the more cost-effective PT5000 out of curiosity, and I have to say, it's probably the common sense choice here. From what I've read online, the main differences between the two come by means of movement finishing and machining, factors that count for little when the rear of the watch is sealed.
Surprisingly, this lower-cost Chinese-made movement doesn't appear to sacrifice accuracy, as my findings support those of other users online, who've stated that these are generally more accurate than most SW200s they've tested. On my timegrapher, this unit measures in at a remarkable +4 seconds per day, hypothetically matching chronometer precision, usually only found in luxury watches.
Of course, if you really want a Swiss movement inside a Chinese watch, you can buy the Sellita; it just seems a little counterintuitive, especially considering the price discrepancy.
Before we head onto the aesthetics, I need to return to the Miyota in the dive watch for a second. Earlier I said these are usually reasonable movements; unfortunately, this one is definitely faulty. It pauses, judders, or skips a second or two, every few seconds. While it doesn't affect the overall accuracy to a huge degree, it looks crude, and had I purchased this; I'd be immediately returning it for a replacement.
Honestly, if you go back through the posts on this blog, you'll notice I've had a pretty poor run with Miyota over the years. In fact, this isn't the first time I've experienced a stuttering 8000 series either. Behind the scenes, I've already returned a couple of watches in the past with this same issue. Previously, I chalked it up to unluckiness, knowing that there are fine margins for error with intricate products like watch movements and that a small percentage of anything manufactured will end up being faulty. But, it's gotten to the point where I'm not sure that flies.
I get it, these aren't luxury movements, so you shouldn't expect luxury performance. However, I can't say I've owned a new Seiko movement that's exhibited similar issues. After some online research, this stutter appears to be a widely-reported, common fault; either due to Miyota's poor quality control or some inherent design flaw. Combined with the loud rotor noise and the inconsistent, juddering ticks on many of their quartz movements, I can't say I'm very impressed.
A string of microbrands have recently switched from Seiko to Miyota due to reported price hikes and supply issues with the NH35. That may be the case with this San Martin; many of their watches have historically used Seiko automatics, it still seems like a much better choice than the Miyota 8000s, despite costing a little more. I'd love to see a return to that movement or another alternative.
Design
While the dodgy movement sours things, the rest of the diver visuals are striking in a more positive way. A distinct Doxa-like orange is what I opted for here, though there is a multitude of other colors available to pick from, including some subdued options such as navy and silver. Thankfully, the brightest models use inverted bezels, where the color only features in the engraved parts, preventing your eyeballs from being overwhelmed.
While the watch is certainly bold, and I don't think it's a 1:1 clone of an existing watch, I wouldn't say it's super unique either. The shape is very submariner-esque, with some squaring off. The simple syringe handset and standardized markers also contribute to the SN044-G feeling a little like the stereotypical dive watch in terms of looks.
If you're looking to play it safe, that could be seen as a positive. It's not rewriting the script but I'd still take it over most outright 'homage' watches, that completely copy and paste an existing design.
This watch also features applied markers, incredible luminescence, and some welcome logo consistency. Since last time, San Martin seems to have committed to the hexagonal icon for most of their watches, which is more pleasing than the confusing mess of alternatives they used to bounce between.
Much of the same can be said for the SN026-G, which also has great attention to detail. Nevertheless, the design here is far less ordinary. While this model is visually closest to some Bell & Ross watches, it's far from a knock-off, with a more rounded profile, completely different lugs, different dial proportions, and a subtly engraved minute track ring. The face is also reminiscent of the Rolex Explorer, but there are some variances, including the handset, the 12 at the top center, and the typeface selection.
On the wrist, I think the SN026 looks far better than I'd anticipated from the stock images. This 'Sunray Blue' is vibrant without being garish, and if my wrist were a few centimeters thicker, I'd be wearing this well past the test-drive period. It looks like nothing else in my collection and is certainly the best-looking barrel-shaped watch I've encountered to date. As it stands, the quirky form and top-heaviness leave this one feeling a touch wobbly on my small arm.
This model also has really decent lume, though the attractive blue BGW9 used here is around 5% dimmer than the green C3 used in the cheaper dive watch. Nevertheless, both are still more than serviceable for the money. They also both have sapphire crystals with AR coatings.
Final Thoughts
Would I say either of these qualify as a decent original watch? Well, discounting the bogus 'attempt' they made last time, I'd say this is a decent (if a little pricey) first venture into the realms of originality. Construction-wise, this isn't really an upgrade over some of the older watches that retail for substantially less money, which is a shame.
One thing that has improved since last time is delivery times. Since the addition of Chinese import VAT in countries like the UK, some sellers have attempted to mitigate the decline in business by offering faster delivery methods. For example, the SN026-G is now available in as little as 7 days, depending on your location, which is a world away from the month or two you'd have waited for products just a few years ago.
Something you won't want to wait for is this similarly priced Bulova which has a smoother sweep than these San Martins, or any Rolex for that matter. Read the post here to take a look for yourself.